Service 03
Well Pump Replacement: When Repair Stops Making Sense
Pulling an ageing or failed pump and setting a new one, with the well, the drop pipe and the controls inspected while it is open.
The short answer
Well pump replacement is the removal and replacement of the pump and motor in the well, usually together with the drop pipe, cable and check valve. It becomes the right call when the pump is old, when the motor is failing rather than a surface component, when the same fault has come back, or when the cost of another pull is close to the cost of a new pump anyway.
What usually causes it
The pump is at the end of its life
A pump that has run for twelve or fifteen years has given good service. Once the motor starts drawing high amps or the impeller is worn, another repair is money spent on a component that is about to fail somewhere else.
The same failure keeps coming back
If a check valve or a splice has failed twice in a few years, the pump is telling you something. Repeated pulls cost more than the pump did. At that point replacement is the cheaper decision, not the more expensive one.
The well conditions have changed
A falling water table, sand entering the casing, or a well that now produces less than it did means the existing pump is set or sized wrong for the well as it is today. Replacement is the moment to fix that.
Signs it is time to call
Any one of these is worth a phone call. Two or more together usually means something is already failing.
- Pump is more than 12 years old and has failed
- Motor draws high amps but the impeller still turns
- Two or more repairs on the same pump in three years
- Pump runs dry every summer
- Sediment or sand in the water
- Lightning damage to the motor winding
- Pump cannot hold pressure at normal household demand
Repair or replace: how we decide
We look at four things: the age of the pump, the condition of the motor, the reason for the failure, and the cost of the pull. If the pump is young and the fault is a switch, tank or control, we repair. If the motor is failing, the pump is old, or the fault is inside the well, replacement is usually the better economics.
The honest version: a pump that has to come out of the hole is already costing you the most expensive part of the job. Putting a fifteen-year-old motor back in means paying for that pull twice.
What we inspect while the well is open
A replacement is the only time anyone sees the inside of your well. We check the casing for cracks and corrosion, the pitless adapter and its O-ring, the water level and the depth to the pump, and whether sand or iron is entering. Fixing a failing pitless adapter during a pump replacement costs far less than doing it as a separate call.
We also check the cable for damage and the drop pipe for scale. Reusing a tired drop pipe to save a few dollars is a false economy.
What you get afterwards
A new pump, a new check valve, new drop pipe and a properly spliced cable, set at the correct depth for the well as it is now. We re-set the pressure switch or drive, test the flow, and confirm the cut-in and cut-out pressures before we leave.
We leave the old pump with you. Some people want to see what failed, and some want it for scrap. Either is fine.
How the job runs
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01
Diagnosis
Confirm the fault is in the well rather than at the surface, and price the repair against the replacement.
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02
Pull
Hoist the pump, inspect the casing, pitless adapter, cable and drop pipe while everything is accessible.
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03
Set the new pump
Correct horsepower and depth, new check valve, new drop pipe, new splice, torque arrestor as required.
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04
Commission
Pressure settings, flow test, leak check, and a walkthrough of what changed.
What you get
- A clear repair-versus-replace number before you commit
- Casing, pitless adapter and cable inspected while the well is open
- New drop pipe and splice rather than reusing tired components
- Old pump left with you so you can see what failed
How long does a well pump replacement take?
Most residential replacements take two to four hours on site once the hoist is set up, depending on depth, how badly the pipe is scaled, and whether the pitless adapter needs work. Deep wells and stuck pumps take longer.
How much does a new well pump cost?
It depends on horsepower, depth, the drop pipe and cable, and whether the pressure tank or controls also need replacing. We quote the specific job after diagnosis rather than publishing a number that will not match your well.
Do I need a permit to replace a well pump in Oregon?
Replacing a pump in an existing well is generally a repair rather than new well construction, but requirements can vary by county and by the scope of work. If a permit is needed for your job we will tell you before we start.
Can you replace just the motor and keep the pump?
Sometimes, when the pump end is sound and only the motor has failed. In practice the labour to separate and re-fit them makes a complete pump-and-motor assembly the better value on most residential wells.
What should I do with the old pump?
Keep it or scrap it — it is yours. Stainless pump bodies and motors have scrap value, and some people like to keep the failed part as a record of what went wrong.
Related services
Well pump repair
Diagnosis and repair for submersible, jet and booster pumps that have stopped, slowed down or started short-cycling.
Read moreWell pump installation
New submersible, jet and booster pump installation sized to the well yield, the depth and what the house actually uses.
Read morePump diagnostics
Pressure, amperage, flow and drawdown testing to find the actual fault instead of replacing parts by guesswork.
Read moreWell pump replacement across the service area
This service is available throughout Lane, Linn, Benton and Douglas counties. These pages cover the towns we are called to most.
Talk to a well tech
Not sure whether it is the pump, the tank or the well?
That is what the phone is for. Describe what the water is doing and we will tell you what it sounds like.
Request service
Book well pump replacement
Send the details and we will call back with a time. If the water is off now, call 541-935-7867 instead.
Phone
Based in
22071 Fisk Rd
Noti, OR 97461
Emergency
No water, a burst line or a pump that will not stop: call any hour, including weekends.